La Venencia

Unique in the world, “La Venencia” is a place where time seems to be stopped, but this is not the only thing that makes this place so special

This tavern from 1920 has a long series of singularities.
The atmosphere of past times, the premises remain unchanged for many years. Is the only place in the world were only sherry it is served (Fino, Manzanilla, Oloroso, Amontillado and Palo Cortado). No soft drinks, beer or wine or other liquor can be taken in “La Venencia”.
The collection of posters from the missing Sherry Fair is so unique that the Office of Tourism Jerez requested for an exhibition (what was refused by “La Venencia” in order  to avoid injury).
The wine is brought by them from Sanlucar de Barrameda and served direcly from their aged barrels.
The premises, a former Goat milk store, remains intact, including the dust from the bottles, between which we can see a venencia (pot to pour the wine out of the barrel).
The current owners, several brothers who take turns behind the counter, have as an unbreakable principle not to alter neither the local nor the environment of the place, that has been transferred to them as it is by its previous owner.

What has changed from previous owner is that today it is a very popular place with a diverse clientele: neighborhood residents, foreigners bohemians, fine wine lovers, intellectuals, tourists, bullfighting critics, hippies ...
Everything there takes you back to other times. The low light, the barrels, the cash register, the old phone, the fireplace...
A cat wanders freely through the legs of the customers and finds the best place in the local.


La Venencia: Echegaray Street nº 17

For more information:

-Tabernas y tapas en Madrid. Carlos Osorio. Ediciones la Libreria.

 

Picture and Text: Álvaro Rey
 

Vinos y Cervezas Hernani 20 "El sordo"-Wine & Beer 20 Hernani ("The Deaf")

In 20 Hernani Street within the traditional neighborhood of Cuatro Caminos we can find a typical tavern popularly known as "The Deaf" or Vinos Paco..

In the entrance just can be seen "Wine & beer" and the number "20" of the street. It is known by neighbors as "The Deaf" because of father of the actual bartender who is carrying on with the business.Typical Tavern that remains as it was losts of years ago.
 

Visiting that tavern is an incredible experience from "Old Madrid" and the environment and people from Cuatro Caminos in that time.
The jars, the taps, the color of the walls and ceilings, tiles, and even toilets remain with no change.

The building in which it is located is interesting in itself in Hernani Street corner to Isturiz being a typical building of the neighborhood from past times. It is one of the first houses builded in Cuatro Caminos, with brick exterior and interior structure of stairs, hallway or patio, with interesting cornices and baseboards.
The building was constructed between 1880 and 1900.

This cultural area, even today, is plenty of locals and typically traditional buildings (less and less every day) that are worth to be known and preserved.

For more information about the architecture of the area:
"Architecture of Madrid". Volume 2. "Ensanches". 'COAM Foundation (school Arquitectos de Madrid). 2003.
The data sheet is available on the College website:　 http://212.145.146.10/biblioteca/fondos/ingra/index.htm

 Pictures & Text: Álvaro Rey

BODEGA IBIZA

At number 12 of Ibiza street survives one of the few traditional wineries (Bodega) that nowadays are preserved.

In this type of wineries (Bodegas), very popular until the 80s of XX century, were sold wine directly from barrels (called "litreo") as well as diferent sort of liquors and wines (specially from La Mancha Region). Also home deliveries were made.

 

In all the tipical districts of Madrid (barrios castizos) used to be one or two of this "Bodegas", their owners or dependents were usually from regions near Madrid. Some of them were small companies with a few branches f.e. La Ardosa, La Cubas, El Maño ...

Bodega Ibiza preserves its local plenty of this tradition, is a friendly environment and highly customer oriented service. As you can see in the photo above, still keeps the jars, the sink with the little fountain for wash the bottles and barrels that after were filled in with wine..

We recommend pop in in this place, buy a drink, and speak with his friendly owner. It seems that his sons are willing to continue the tradition, so we can luckily continue enjoying this old "bodega" (winery)

Photos and text:Álvaro Rey

PASAJE MUTUALIDAD - MUTUALIDAD ARCADE

1952 - 1955 Architects: Manuel Muñoz Monasterio / Manuel Manzano Monis Manzebo

The passage mutuality is a singular space, a rare jewel out of his time, in addition to being endangered.
This is a beautiful shopping arcade built out of time. The "arcades" born in France in the eighteenth century and were building during the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. In Madrid had several of those, of which very few remain .

This place born  in an unusual time (50´s) and their forms are very different from the usual.It was built by the Montepio Nacional de Previsión Social de los Productores de la Dependencia Mercantil (an insurance company) . It was called: ”Pasaje Mutualidad"  ("Mutualidad Arcade”).It is a most advanced aesthetic Spanish architecture of the 50s. It is divided into a large shopping area on the ground floor and offices on the rest, with a central square with plant cover V.

 

It seems the new materials available at the time, as cover glass block and tile reliefs on black stone.

The set of curves in the walls, as the great central panel in contrast to rectilinear geometries expressionist elements create an original space and disconcerting, with the addition of the mysterious atmosphere.

The vanguard showcases contrast with the classic streetlights. Modern materials with expressionistic curves, sometimes reminding the '20s and art deco.

 The gallery has two entrances, in Fuencarral street, and othe in Corredera alta de San Pablo street, each with a different treatment. Fuencarral facade has two different volumes (with different materials).Vertical tower with balconies and a horizontal grid of stone.

Corredera Alta de san Pablo street facade

Fuencarral street facade

This is a space with disappearing risk.Only open thanks when "Relojeria Monge" is open, who clean and kept in good condition the gallery. When is open, the "Mutualidad Arcade is a passage between the two streets.

 

We hope this unique space survive. 

For more information:

-Arquitectura de Madrid. Tomo 2 .Casco histórico. Edit: fundación COAM. (2003)

- Los pasajes comerciales de Madrid (2011).Carmen del Moral Ruiz, Edit:  

 text: Álvaro Rey

Photos: Manuel y Álvaro Rey